The Real Wine World


The participants were Susana Balbo in Argentina, Italian wine importer Gregory Smolik in Chicago, and the small shop Big Nose Full Body in Brooklyn’s Park Slope.

我现在带来的原因是双重。首先,我刚刚将所有碎片转移到这个新网站上,发布到他们的原始日期。你可以找到脱脂片这里. 由于新的分类功能,您可以在The Real Wine World. 这些作品现在有你的评论空间!

其次,我以为我应该把封闭扣为项目。每个人都忙碌,这个项目没有整整一年。Susana Balbo在她成为阿根廷贸易协会葡萄酒的总裁时,她的时间进一步要求。Gregory Smolik作为来自意大利的精品葡萄酒的独立进口商的职业生涯结束了,但他现在将他的激情和知识带给了进口商Domaine Select的新工作。大鼻子全身仍然润滑了公园斜坡的口腔,周六下午和每天15%的折扣折扣。

Who knows, maybe we’ll try for a second season of the Real Wine World sometime?!

Gregory Smolik: implosion


I called him on his cell phone and caught him in his distributor’s warehouse. The implosion related to a side business that he had been trying to set up to import larger volume wines from Italy that was going to be his cash cow. He was despondent.




“我的葡萄酒太多了卖。市场还没准备好。让我们谈谈橄榄园的Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio - 他们不喝Aglianico。我讨厌出售我的灵魂,但如果我不卖东西,我就会走了。他说,不是一天,我不考虑成为有机农民或回到玩喇叭,“他说。

“Everybody at school would have Nike; I wanted Addidas. I have never wanted what everybody else had…I just want to change people’s ideas about having to have Pinot Grigio at restaurants. Pinot Grigio 50 years ago was nothing. Tony Terlato [the American importer who built the Santa Margherita brand] was a marketing genius, like Madonna. I’m not shooting to be a multimillionaire, but I would like to get something screamingly successful.”






Greg recently got a call from Sam’s Wine saying that a customer wanted 18 bottles of Pipoli aglianico bianco and they were scrambling to fill it. Greg asked why one person wanted so many bottles of the wine and the reply came that a recently widowed woman was pouring the wine at her husband’s memorial service-at his request. In his will, the woman’s husband had specified that he wanted certain olive oils, cheeses and Pipoli bianco to be served. Greg asked if the couple had ever been to the winery and the answer was no. Greg was also out of stock on the wine and had to have some flown in from an out-of-state warehouse, such was his honor at the request.


* * *


The Real Wine World updated

对于网站的新读者,我目前正在运行一年的长期“现实” - 三个行业参与者的纪事。The Real Wine World,正如我所谓的那样,遵循葡萄酒制造商,葡萄酒进口商和当地的葡萄酒商店。生产者是Susana Balbo.来自阿根廷的Mendoza,进口商是Gregory Smolikwho imports rustic wines of indigenous varietals from Italy, and the shop is called大鼻子全身in Park Slope (Brooklyn).

在最近的最新更新中,葡萄酒店已经改变了手!我去了公园坡遇到精力充沛的新主人,亚伦汉斯,并了解他的背景,购买商店的交易以及他的计划。在最新的Greg,我加入了him and winemaker Walter Fabbri在芝加哥吃午餐。


爆炸新闻:8月9日Patricia Savoie出售大鼻子,全身到亚伦汉斯。帕特决定追求葡萄酒写作全职。我们以后会赶上她直接收到她的来信。与此同时,我去了公园坡,迎接亚伦,商店的新主体 -

Aaron Hans is so bursting with ideas and energy that is small wonder that his close-cropped blond hair stands straight up. But this thirty-something new owner of Big Nose Full Body has plans to tweak the shop, not give it a wholesale makeover. The clever name, the exciting range of wines, the handsome interior space, and the free tastings on Saturdays will all stay the same. But there will be minor changes including staying open seven days a week and even adding some apparel items.

也许亚伦的最大变化就是他的通勤。作为Frederick Wildman的葡萄酒分布的销售代表,他每天乘坐多达10个地铁列车来访问他的账户,餐馆和商店。BNFB是他的账户之一,当他得知帕特正在考虑销售时,他提出了一个报价。这个长期居民公园坡的五个街区毫无疑问是他思考的一个因素。



The store stocks wines from Wildman and Aaron is familiar with those. He hasn’t tasted through all the wines in the shop yet but any new wines that he adds, he will taste. He added a wine from Ridge to the store already, one that he knows and likes. The store currently gets wine from 22 distributors and he doesn’t plan on adding any more. “That’s a lot already,” he says.

I wondered, how do you value a wine shop? Aaron explained that when he purchased the shop from Pat in early August, he paid one price for the business, one price for the inventory, and the rest was thrown in as “good will.” That included odds and ends in the shop such as the racking and the computer-and even the staff. Larry, the assistant manager who was within earshot, joked that that was a lot of good will. “The staff are all great and we have no plans for changes,” said Aaron smiling.

With the busy season kicking in, he will however be buying a new computer to speed up the bookkeeping the current sluggish computer and to help with checkout. Last Saturday evening, there was a line the entire length of the shop.

为了应对这个繁忙的最后几个月the year, Aaron has added opening hours on Sunday. Originally it was 12-6 but he said the last two hours were very busy and he felt badly turning people away. So now the Sunday hours are 12-9. Aaron says that he could easily work 80 hours a week but has limited himself to five days a week in the shop. He has to spend some time with his wife and kids after all.

Kids are clearly on Aaron’s brain. He interrupts our talk at one point to help a woman with a stroller into the shop. Given the demographics of the neighborhood, Aaron will be working with a designer to introduce Big Nose Full Body t-shirts—and baby apparel such as onesies and toddler tees.



上周,当我来到芝加哥北岸的意大利康维托(Convito Italiano)吃午饭的时候,太阳正倾泻在格雷格•斯莫利克(Greg Smolik)和巴斯利姆(Basilium)的酿酒师沃尔特•法布里(Walter Fabbri)身上。考虑到格雷格偏爱反映其生长环境的“正宗”葡萄酒,沃尔特(Walter)身材矮胖、风趣幽默,只会说支离破碎的英语也就不足为奇了。他可不像米歇尔·罗兰那样坐着一辆黑色奔驰车,一边用手机向全球100多家酒厂咨询。相反,他是他生命的产物terroir和他的酒一样多。


格雷格和我已经安排了这顿午餐,我们的第一个面对面的会议,所以我可以迎接沃尔特以及Lynda Jo Shlaes,在Convito的葡萄酒总监。虽然这是一个商务会议,但在她坐在坐下来独立地说他是“像兄弟一样”之前,基调显然很善于好评。

Lynda Jo描述了格雷格,因为有明星的品质。“他是唯一来到这里的进口商或经销商,倒入葡萄酒,有一群人。”周五下午,她经常有免费的葡萄酒品尝,并说人群神秘地知道它何时是格雷格的一天,开始出现。我想知道他们是否有Greg-dar,类似于雷达。“我最终把一个小牌子放在窗前,但之前我不确定他们是怎么知道的,”她承认。“也许是肉。”


“格雷格一下午可以轻松地销售10例葡萄酒。”Lynda Jo说。Convito不仅是一家现代意大利餐厅,还有25年,而且还有一家销售意大利葡萄酒和美食的商店。

对于我们的午餐,Greg带来了来自Walter的酒庄的两种样品。葡萄酒,称为Pipoli 2003和I Portali 2003,完全来自Aglianico葡萄。Greg说,Aglianico最近只能进入自己的主演角色(录食百老汇),但曾被用来批量批量酿酒的葡萄酒,Chianti甚至是罗纳,格雷格说。这些葡萄酒来自Basilicata,在靴子的拱门中是意大利在地图上的轮廓。

Greg also wanted us to try the Pipoli Chiaro, a white wine from the red Aglianico grape, with the lunch. So Lynda Jo brought out a bottle from her stock and chilled it in an ice bucket filled with water, ice and salt (a trade secret). The Pipoli Chiaro 2004 (about $8 retail,找到这款葡萄酒)看起来很清楚,但有一个红葡萄酒。我刚刚看过前一天的另一家商店的葡萄酒总监,她说她是她秋天的时事通讯中的Plipoli Chiasro,作为一个出色的白色。我同意。这是一款白葡萄酒,具有红葡萄酒个性,适合过渡天气。格雷格,一直在考虑食物搭配,建议的肉(猪肉),鱼(巴卡拉)和含有红色酱汁的意大利面。

As our food arrived, panini for Greg and me, a salad for Lynda Jo, and grilled chicken for Walter, we moved on to the reds, starting with the Pipoli Rosso (about $9 retail,找到这款葡萄酒)。沃尔特的葡萄酒最谦虚,它仍然从30岁的葡萄藤中手中收获,并且零售额约为10美元。它是中等的身体,准备喝。Greg推荐猪肉,羊肉或意大利面,用于常规或扁豆或局部辣椒,以味道致残。

We then moved on to the I Portali, which exhibited more heft and for about $12 retail (找到这款葡萄酒),似乎对我来说更好。秃鹫生长地区的火山土壤在巴斯利卡塔上给了这款葡萄酒一些矿物质票据,但黑暗的水果和柔软的单宁给它带来了很多深度和复杂性。它在大橡木桶和4个月内为10个月的小桶。

Walter’s top wine, the Valle del Trono (about $20 retail,找到这款葡萄酒), was not available for our lunch, but I’ve tasted it before and think that it tastes like a wine worth twice the price. Walter’s 2001 vintage made only 30,000 bottles of the wine, which used best grapes from the oldest vineyards. Harvested late on November 20, the grapes received 20 days of drying in the sun (akin to an Amarone), 60 days of fermentation, and 30 months of oak aging. This wine accounts for about a quarter of Basilium’s wines.

这些葡萄酒是给沃尔特的最乐趣,但沃尔特使用他的其他大型葡萄园来支付票据通过生产大众市场葡萄酒。他生长了Pinot Grigio和Greco de Tufo匿名出售英国的大型买家。



Gregory Smolik,平均一两天


7 AM – Turn on computer, go through e-mails, make breakfast.
8:30 Calls may start from Italy with questions concerning current orders if any.
10:30-11:00 - 如果在镇上,组织当天的活动

1:30 – 2:00 Quick lunch
4:30 Apppt(通常葡萄酒)
5:30第三分和持续的APPT - 取决于我是否正在开车或走路,如果我在郊区有所作为。
7:00 Dinner meeting with colleagues or doing a tasting.
10:30 – 11:00 I will leave the computer but I usually get up at some point during the night because I forgot to e-mail or check something.

9:30am Drive to next appt
9pm Find a hotel if one is not already reserved.
10-10:30 Go over the day’s events organize all paperwork, etc then organize the next day’s events.


Ed Lehrman,Susana Balbo的美国进口商

与Susana本月假期,我以为我们可以听到她的美国进口商,藤蔓联系。上周,合作伙伴Ed Lehrman从他的办事处与他的办公室谈过。

当Ed Lehrman去Mendoza时,他住在一个酒店的一半前沿旅游价格。如何?他让他的一个当地生产者成为他的酒店预订。这是贸易署的诀窍,在过去五年中学到了他公司作为阿根廷葡萄酒的最强大进口商之一。

In 1999, Ed went on a fateful journey to Argentina. He had just sold his wine retail business and decided to join one of his distributors, Nick Ramkowsky, on a trip to South America. Although they only spent five days in Argentina and neither spoke much Spanish, they were so impressed by what they saw and tasted that they decided to go into business together and start importing the wines of Argentina to the US.

Ed tasted 3,000 wines a year in his retail business, a company for mail order wine, and Nick tasted a lot too. But when they were sampling in Mendoza, “He looked at me and I looked at him, and we agreed that this is far different from wines we know as Argentine—we have to do something about this,” Ed recalled on the phone last week from his office in Sausalito, CA.




凭借对美国市场及其怪癖的了解,以及对包装和销售的了解,埃德和尼克建立了葡萄园联系,开始进口阿根廷的葡萄酒。他们带着标签的彩色打印件和12种葡萄酒的样品,开始敲门,从头开始建立经销商网络。尽管这些葡萄酒在一个相对不知名的国家定价很高,从BenMarco Malbec的22美元开始,零售价涨到了50美元,但他们还是获得了极大的热情和认可。”“价格点并不像今天那么艰难,”埃德说。

Today VineConnections has a presence in 45 states. His portfolio of wines now is almost entirely dedicated to the wines of Argentina since Ed says that as an importer “it is increasingly difficult to be a generalist.” The Vine Connections portfolio also includes the wines of Ernesto and Laura Catena, Tikal and Luca respectively, both the children of Argentine wine pioneer, Nicolas Catena. And they are also importers of several dozen premium sakes from Japan.

Ed描述了Dominio del Plata,Susana与丈夫佩德罗建造的酿酒厂,比其他更豪华的葡萄酒厂更舒适和雄厚。他们在他们的葡萄园中建造它,并且还包括在酒庄中的住宅空间,所以从他们的餐厅窗口,你可以看到发酵罐。它在通往智利的途中的路上的位置,使其变得非常方便。这很小奇迹,在明年的Susana的盘子上有一件事正在思考如何更好地处理旅游请求。

Single vineyard wines are more risky in Argentina than they are in other parts of the wine world because of the risk of a snap hail storm, which can decimate a crop in 15 minutes. He cited staggering figures of a 13% annual loss rate of the total Mendoza grape crop over the last 20 years. Thus producers tend to source their grapes from several growing sites to diversify the risk. And they also resort to hail netting and even cannons, whose blasts are thought to break up hail squalls.



“甚至难以找到填充的容器,”Ed Lement是因为在今年冬天的交通已经如此升级,因为巨大的降雪。通常,通过冬季的通行证可以关闭一两天,但今年冬天它一次已关闭长达两周。尽管如此,每两周搬家的船只意味着,一旦他们清除安第斯山脉,他们就不必等待船。


Ed and Nick were drawn to Argentina in 1999 by the wines but in 2002 many others were drawn by the currency collapse. “When we went from the first time, we thought we had found the Holy Grail, to make good wine consistently, and we thought we could have the place to ourselves for quite a while. But now Argentina is so much on the map and the number of foreigners who have moved in has been phenomenal. No major wine growing country is without some sort of presence,” Ed said. “I’m stunned that it took the world this long to find out.”

Gregory Smolik,坎帕尼亚

格雷格最近在Mt的“红区”中花了一些时间。维苏威岛凝视着原来的火山口。不,他没有领导庞贝的挖掘。相反,他走了酿酒师Gabriele Defalco的葡萄园。

位于坎帕尼亚,在那不勒斯湾和班斯的侧翼上。VESUVIUS,DEFALCO是Greg的Sauvage选择的四个葡萄酒生产商之一。Defalco是批评的Feudi di San Gregorio的前葡萄园经理,使来自Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Doc的红色和白色葡萄酒。

这次旅行看到DeFalco特别有趣Greg since his wife Nell was able to tag along. This week-long trip, primarily to go to a family wedding but also to see DeFalco, was the first one that Nell went on since Greg started the business. “Usually he’s so booked with appointments, driving eight hours a day, and racing around without a day of rest—that it doesn’t make for a vacation at all,” Nell wrote me last week.


Defalco离开了菲达追求自己的正宗酿酒风格Greg说。Although Feudi is known for having put the local, indigenous varietals such as the white Falanghina and the red Aglianico on the wine world’s radar screen (Robert Parker gave Feudi’s $65 Serpico 2001 Aglianico 98 points), when they turned to pursue a winemaking style that produced bigger, more oak-driven wines DeFalco no longer felt comfortable. Now Greg buys most of the wine that he makes for export to the US.

“费卢特白(法氏牧场)没有地方感。Defalco White是更轻的,桃子的笔记与鱼一起漂亮。费卢迪摇滚鱼,“格雷格总结了。


消费者们将屏息以待—还有舌头。回归十天后,格雷格带领消费者品尝了一顿德法尔科葡萄酒。在最近开张的夜店é 在伊利诺伊州阿灵顿高地,格雷格让他们尝尝白葡萄酒,他们同意了。然后格雷格让他们尝一个橄榄或者在舌头上放一点盐,然后再次品尝葡萄酒。”每个人金宝博188官方都说“该死!我不知道食物会对酒造成这样的影响!“

DeFalco might be the producer closest to Smolik if in name only since his mother’s maiden name is DeFalco. Although he family came from Sicily, where the spelling is DiFalco, they switched to the Campania spelling of DeFalco for ease of pronunciation in America. Greg grew up speaking Italian with his mother and visiting her relatives in Sicily every summer.

Greg was headed to Sicily on Friday when I reached him at O’Hare. He’s going to be in Italy working on a new, complimentary business. He has just gotten financing for a new line of wines that he is going to import under the Cantina della Passione name. They will be accessible selections of barbera, chianti, and Pinot Grigio with a focus on quality. “I have restaurant owners telling me ‘I’ll never be able to sell Aglianico Bianco in the suburbs, Greg.’ So this new line is wine is for them: quality, accessible and higher volumes.”






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